YEW REBUILD

[ARROW SLINGER]

I have been working on this for a few days already and it seems to be working out so here goes!

For those of you that went to the Bunny hunt this year, Peter had this old Yew Billet stave sitting up against the wall looking for a new home, the back and sap wood had been chewed up to bad to make a self bow, but being it was first started in 1945 and I like a challenge - I took it home!

The first thing was to rip the back off it down to a flat working surface then take the handle and riser off because it had some deep cracks running length ways.


The left overs


Now a new handle from the left over scraps after a trip through the band saw to make 1/8" lams

Preparing the Bamboo backing, this piece of Boo came from AM57- thanks Clair

made for each other

Now the lower limb needs straightening, the experts say dry heat for old wood!

All straight after 45 mins cooling off, and the Captain supervising!!

The test fit

My Temporary Hot Box, nothin fancy but gets up to 110 degrees, theres a couple more bows in there keeping it company!

All out of the Hot tent and roughed out, next day!

Looking good sor far


Now there all back in the root cellar to put a bit of moisture back in them, I like around 8% and right now their at 6% after the glueing process. After 4 nights at work they should be ready to go
Stay tuned

[archeryman57]

I do admire your effort with the old stick of yew.
With the bamboo as thick as it is what do you expect the yew thickness to be on the final tillering?
BTW, when I was shooting at Calgary Archery Center last evening I was chatting with the owner about the staves that are for sale there. She has bow blanks for sale that are very much the same as you are making. Bamboo back with maple belly and made on a form to give them deflex and reflex. The ones she has there look the same as each other and should let you tiller them to make a 70lb bow. The billets that I have supplied the store with don't sell very well because folks are shy about splicing. I think that I will bring them to my shop and splice them for them.

[ARROW SLINGER]

I took the Bamboo down to 1/8 at tips tapperd to 3/16 + over the riser to re-enforce the 63 year old urac on the splice so should be pretty good, looks thicker on the yew because I left a weee bit of sapwood for character. keepin my fingers crossed, my walnut projects ended up with about 1/4 thick wood at the tips up to about 5/8 + at the riser fade and their about the same density wood, hopefully my reasoning works!!

Just not sure what poundage to aim for with this old wood?? 45lb would be nice, its floor tillering pretty good, not too stiff

[archeryman57]

It will be pretty with the contrasting colors. Yew will be surprised, as I find, the yew is different than most other woods. Even the yew can vary sometimes what with the different growth rates and al.

[ironfistcanada]

Great job Slinger. That workshop is just too clean though. Looks like there has been some major cleaning done there. Way too clean for me I couldnt work in that neatness. hahahah. Good job on those bows . John.

[ARROW SLINGER]

Seems to be the normal responce John
Thats just the way I keep it all the time, I have been told many times I am a little too (A#$L) organized when it comes to my work areas.
If I could just remember where I hide everything!!! Too many years on subs with a lack of oxygen to blame for that.

Rob

[ARROW SLINGER]

Well I finally found time to work on my own project again!

Here is the first trip to the tiller stick


Bit of work but still at warrior draw wreight



First arrows



Momma was fast on the triger with this shot!


Still shoots nice


Final product, sanded and burnished, 50# @ 28"


Came out a lot stronger and faster shooting than I expected for a 63 year old piece of wood ;D

now what finish to put on? Natural tung oil or a light maple stain and varnish?

Any ideas guys?

[POINTY STICKS]

Ya gotta do the natural true or tung oil.

Nice job on that one Rob

[alpo]

I like the oil finish as well. Looks good A.S.

[huntwisely]

I'd go for the natural finish as well - lots of it - yew seems to suck mositure if not sealed up well

GOOD JOB - that softwood makes a fast shooter for sure. Hard to believe yew is a softwood

[archeryman57]

The bow looks to be bending more near the fadeouts. If you take some wood off the rest of the limbs the weight will come down slightly and the bow will tke less set, but should shoot even faster. Can you tell when it is un-braced where it has taken set?

[ARROW SLINGER]

I might play with it a bit more later, hard to work around the nodes and get them to do what you want.
heres a couple pics after 6 coats of Tung oil rubbed in, the coulor of the yew realy came out.



The bottom limb has a bit more sap wood than the top also so it is a bit stiffer, room to take a bit more belly off.

[POINTY STICKS]

Nice job Rob. That bow is going to look great hanging on my wall. Thankyou very much ;D

[archeryman57]

Pretty wood, I must say. You could take wood off the width of the limb tips thereby making them lighter in mass and they should recover faster. They do seem to have taken most of the set near the fadeouts. As you know the power comes from the heavy part of the limb near the handle and the speed comes from the tips. Just don't make the tips too light or it will become whippended. Bamboo and yew, nice combo.

[ARROW SLINGER]

Next decission is the handle! leather wrap or stich on? Burgundy coulored or black leather ?? and whether or not to put a little leather rest on? I shoots good off the hand!

And thinking about Clairs tips for performance!!